I cannot think of a better way to describe the teacher farewell parties in Korea than to compare it to that of senior week in college. Drunken antics, last chances for office romance, and a lot of dinners/organized activities that lead to debauchery. Sound familiar? This past week marks the transition time for many teachers, bidding farewell to a school they have worked in for 2-3 years.
In Korea, unlike America, teachers are required to change schools every 2-3 years. It gives teachers an opportunity to teach in different locations and changes things up in the school. Differing from America, where the curriculum is not set specifically, this is much more feasible. Moreover, people embrace the change rather than in America where teacher retention rate is of the utmost importance for a school's reputation.
In turn, teachers create community by frequently going to teachers meetings-which consist of dinners, drinking and debauchery. During the week before the New Year starts, a vacation mind you, things get extra saucy.
Coffee date lover-He's been layin low, perhaps in attempt to woo me during his last week at our school. I must say I did not notice his presence, until it was the end of the first round. I accompanied my co teacher to a table where the following conversation took place.
CDL-you look so beautiful. Your earrings are new I have never seen them on you before. *
*This is true; the earrings were a birthday gift from Alex. I never knew coffee date lover was so perceptive, or that he looked at me enough to understand and know the extensive jewelry collection I posses. Sick I tell you, I don't even know what earrings have worn and not worn.
He continued to pour me a hearty shot of soju-describing in broken English that it was the amount of tears he would cry from missing me. No wonder I am getting so soft in Korea-we all get so sentimental here. I wondered if it was my cue to poor a glass and tell him how many tears I would shed? I did no such thing.
Following that awkward conversation, a man who I have seen in passing but never spoken to looks to me and just says, "Lauryn I love you." Reminiscent of my middle school boys I laughed. He got very serious and stated "NO SERIOUSLY NOT COMEDIAN I LOVE YOU." I laughed again. To which he responded deadpan "I have a wife."
We all set out, my co teacher and the three men left at dinner. Somehow I ended up hand in hand with coffee date lover and "Lauryn I love you" man. I have to assume he is leaving the school as well. It's their last chance to make a move-if not now when, I suppose. But, trying coyly to set me up with coffee date lover, another teacher pulled "Lauryn I love you" man away and I was walking hand in hand with coffee date lover. I suppose it's better to be loved, but still oh so awkward. I broke away for some noribang and was able to hold my own in drinking noribang. That's right-drinking noribang was instated by the head teacher. The rules are simple-sing a song you pass. If you opt out of singing, you must pay a financial penalty and drink for as long as people deem appropriate. Once again, behavior reminiscent of senior week debauchery-except your respected boss is wholeheartedly engaged and partaking in the antics.
Clearly everyone means well and these stories pose no real threat to me. Though the overt nature of some teacher's interactions with me provide great humor in my life.
I also learned one thing from this event. Never attempt to go grocery shopping after a teacher's meeting while drunk in country where you don't speak the language well. You end up buying vegetables that look like celery but are in actuality something totally different. I attempted to make my bisque and it was not until I cut into the green crunchy veggie, of which I still have no clue what it's name is, that I realized it smells and tastes different. So much for picnics.
2.23.2007
If you were stranded on a small desert island, what would you bring and why?
"I would bring the President of the United States because the U.S.A peoples will find the president so the find me"
2.22.2007
Coming Out Korea
Fulbright fully prepared us to endure a new life with a homestay, and with strategies to effectively teach English in a Korean Classroom. What orientation also did, was instill fear in us. Fear, that any wrongdoing could result in being labeled the permanent wongkta (outcast) not to mention culturally insensitive. We heard stories of the best E.T.A.'s, but the stories of interactions gone awry is what stood out in many of our heads. With that said, it made common sense to keep a personal relationship private from host families, co teachers, and most definitely students.
Although there were the romantic stories of past eta's falling in love and proposals, in American norigbangs post Korea, there were also stories of co teachers putting down ETA's abilities-citing romantic relationships as the cause for poor performance. I needed no controversies in my life at school or home. Though many Korean university students have boyfriends or girlfriends, many have told me they would never let their parents know. My Korean friends told me "maybe you should not tell anyone" or "maybe you should pretend to be engaged;" also a strategy recommended by co-teachers and employed by fellow eta's when significant others visit. Whatever you do, DO NOT TELL ANYONE YOU ARE STAYING IN YEOGWANS. Though this belongs in another post-that is a prime example of Korea, a country of dualities. Simultaneously, all Koreans want you to be dating (many holidays are couple oriented and one is almost pitied if they do not have a significant other) yet it can be perceived as scandalous if you are in relationship.
And so I entered a life of dishonesty. Sneaking around, denying accusations of "teacher we saw you with boyfriend"-though said comment could be about anyone of the opposite sex no matter what the relation might be. I received this comment a lot regarding Rafiq-it was hard to combat, but I just had to laugh.
It was then decided to have a coming out. A heterosexual coming out of sorts, but nonetheless, out of another type of closet-the Korean couple closet. It's not much of a loud and proud ordeal as much as it is an "ask and tell" policy.
I didn't expect much- but then I arrived home last night and I beg to argue nothing could top being cornered by my entire host family. Some people use "cornered" in a metaphorical sense, I on the other hand was both literally and metaphorically "Cornered." I embraced the teachable moment and explained "being cornered" to the family following our dialog.
Due to spring cleaning, all of my clothes were cleaned -including sungmi's present which I had yet to give her. So I went to the corner of the house in attempts to give her the present from the drying rack. That's when it happened. My family descended upon me-literally cornering me. Everyone except for the dad that is. "Lauryn-we have to ask you something very important" They are all giggling-everyone. It is clear my host mom is leading the crew. Sungmi looks concerned and is saying "don't get angry." Soyeon seems disgruntled, passively sitting by, almost appalled that such a scenario is occurring. IE. that her family is harassing me-she sort of has a Daria way about her (for instance in class today I asked her what she liked about her apt-and she said "NOTHING really I dislike apt. I WANT A HOUSE"-in somewhat of a monotone voice. I digress, my host mom goes for it: "Lauryn -ALEX?" *first pregnant pause of the evening. "Alex and you couple?" I responded with "maybe" utilizing the Korean definition-meaning "probably, yes." There was no lying-but this seemed ambiguous. They looked utterly confused,as in "maybe can you maybe be in a relationship??" I gave in and said "OK yes."
What happened next could be described as mayhem of sorts, they all just started jumping around and giggling. My host mom was so happy. I had never seen her eyes light up, or act so ecstatic. It was as if, up until now they were constantly wondering what was wrong with me. I did frequently get the sympathetic response "why" to the "No I do not have a boyfriend." Sungmi exclaimed "Lauryn Alex piece of art." My host mom said "beautiful" and then almost like a broken record would not stop repeating "Korean love story, Korean love story."
They told me how nervous they were to ask and that my host mom planned it and rallied the troops. To make a situation even more over dramatized, my mother told me how she couldn't sleep until she knew. This was followed by a blunt assertion "and soyeon will now tell everyone at school." Maybe a coming out parade will take place-or at least a banner-they like those here in Korea.
Then the room went silent. The merriment was over, they were going to confront me. They must have caught wind of yeogwan tour y2k7. "lauryn very important second question." A pregnant pause that seemed more endless than the first, proceeded "RAFIQ." I have realized their "questions" are really statements to which I should infer the question they are trying to ask. It's like Jeopardy.
They sadly and tentatively asked "one sided love?" When relaying this story to Rafiq he assumed they picked up on his preferences being one sided. But no. They asserted with great confidence- almost as if to let me know something I have been oblivious to for 7 months, "he is in love with you we think." Once again hard to explain-"no no really no."
The coming out was more of an "outing" by the Ko family. Followed by a dinner invitation for Alex. Go figure.
Although there were the romantic stories of past eta's falling in love and proposals, in American norigbangs post Korea, there were also stories of co teachers putting down ETA's abilities-citing romantic relationships as the cause for poor performance. I needed no controversies in my life at school or home. Though many Korean university students have boyfriends or girlfriends, many have told me they would never let their parents know. My Korean friends told me "maybe you should not tell anyone" or "maybe you should pretend to be engaged;" also a strategy recommended by co-teachers and employed by fellow eta's when significant others visit. Whatever you do, DO NOT TELL ANYONE YOU ARE STAYING IN YEOGWANS. Though this belongs in another post-that is a prime example of Korea, a country of dualities. Simultaneously, all Koreans want you to be dating (many holidays are couple oriented and one is almost pitied if they do not have a significant other) yet it can be perceived as scandalous if you are in relationship.
And so I entered a life of dishonesty. Sneaking around, denying accusations of "teacher we saw you with boyfriend"-though said comment could be about anyone of the opposite sex no matter what the relation might be. I received this comment a lot regarding Rafiq-it was hard to combat, but I just had to laugh.
It was then decided to have a coming out. A heterosexual coming out of sorts, but nonetheless, out of another type of closet-the Korean couple closet. It's not much of a loud and proud ordeal as much as it is an "ask and tell" policy.
I didn't expect much- but then I arrived home last night and I beg to argue nothing could top being cornered by my entire host family. Some people use "cornered" in a metaphorical sense, I on the other hand was both literally and metaphorically "Cornered." I embraced the teachable moment and explained "being cornered" to the family following our dialog.
Due to spring cleaning, all of my clothes were cleaned -including sungmi's present which I had yet to give her. So I went to the corner of the house in attempts to give her the present from the drying rack. That's when it happened. My family descended upon me-literally cornering me. Everyone except for the dad that is. "Lauryn-we have to ask you something very important" They are all giggling-everyone. It is clear my host mom is leading the crew. Sungmi looks concerned and is saying "don't get angry." Soyeon seems disgruntled, passively sitting by, almost appalled that such a scenario is occurring. IE. that her family is harassing me-she sort of has a Daria way about her (for instance in class today I asked her what she liked about her apt-and she said "NOTHING really I dislike apt. I WANT A HOUSE"-in somewhat of a monotone voice. I digress, my host mom goes for it: "Lauryn -ALEX?" *first pregnant pause of the evening. "Alex and you couple?" I responded with "maybe" utilizing the Korean definition-meaning "probably, yes." There was no lying-but this seemed ambiguous. They looked utterly confused,as in "maybe can you maybe be in a relationship??" I gave in and said "OK yes."
What happened next could be described as mayhem of sorts, they all just started jumping around and giggling. My host mom was so happy. I had never seen her eyes light up, or act so ecstatic. It was as if, up until now they were constantly wondering what was wrong with me. I did frequently get the sympathetic response "why" to the "No I do not have a boyfriend." Sungmi exclaimed "Lauryn Alex piece of art." My host mom said "beautiful" and then almost like a broken record would not stop repeating "Korean love story, Korean love story."
They told me how nervous they were to ask and that my host mom planned it and rallied the troops. To make a situation even more over dramatized, my mother told me how she couldn't sleep until she knew. This was followed by a blunt assertion "and soyeon will now tell everyone at school." Maybe a coming out parade will take place-or at least a banner-they like those here in Korea.
Then the room went silent. The merriment was over, they were going to confront me. They must have caught wind of yeogwan tour y2k7. "lauryn very important second question." A pregnant pause that seemed more endless than the first, proceeded "RAFIQ." I have realized their "questions" are really statements to which I should infer the question they are trying to ask. It's like Jeopardy.
They sadly and tentatively asked "one sided love?" When relaying this story to Rafiq he assumed they picked up on his preferences being one sided. But no. They asserted with great confidence- almost as if to let me know something I have been oblivious to for 7 months, "he is in love with you we think." Once again hard to explain-"no no really no."
The coming out was more of an "outing" by the Ko family. Followed by a dinner invitation for Alex. Go figure.
Turning Points: Love From Teachers Other Than Coffee Date Lover
They say "absence makes the heart grow fonder." So must be the case here at Ara Middle School. With a twinkle in their eye and a skip in their step, teachers who have never acknowledged me, or those who've never spoken a word to me-have become very enthusiastic about my presence. Big smiles,GOOOD MORNINGs, HELLLO's and firm hand shakes from administrators and faculty alike, have welcomed me back to the school. Even the vice principal, whom I am terrified of, gave me the biggest smile and a big hello. He has never EVER, said anything to me in English. In fact, I couldn't really insa him because he frequently, didn't look up at me. Clearly, this was a massive turning point in our relationship. Everyone seems extremely interested in my presence, a scenario seemingly more appropriate for when I first arrived. Nonetheless, it feels good to forge the divide between insider and outsider-especially in such a group oriented society. I was even invited to tea today with an English teacher other than my co teacher. Classes are amazing, co worker relations couldn't be better, and it was 60 degrees yesterday when I played at the waterfall and beaches. I was apprehensive regarding my arrival back to the island, but things couldn't seem to be going more swimmingly.
Look forward to some upcoming posts: "Korea: Demonstrating Dualities Daily" and "Coming Out Korea 2007-it's not what you think."
Look forward to some upcoming posts: "Korea: Demonstrating Dualities Daily" and "Coming Out Korea 2007-it's not what you think."
2.16.2007
Annies Mac and Cheese: developing autonomy one recipe at a time
Today, for almost the first time in 7 months, I prepared a meal for myself. The feeling was quite invigorating. Not only did I make annies mac and cheese, stove top not microwaveable, I ALSO got to do my dishes. Now this is the first and last time I will ever be grateful for dishwashing. But, living in a homestay where I can't even pour my own water, experiences like seeing the sink up close and personally is pretty exciting once in a while. Perhaps, this meal making adventure, is a chance for me to assert my independence. I am 24, yet when my younger host cousin entered the house, she was surprised i knew how to boil hot water, let alone cook the children lamien. Quite the accomplishment here on the island!
traveling thoughts
A cross country trip teaches you a lot. I learned that having a parasite is no fun, and prevents you from enjoying the luxuries of all you can eat Korean BBQ. I also learned that no matter how much you enjoy the company of your travel buddy, 526 hours straight, can get tense 504 hours in on a bus that will seemingly never reach it's destination. People with long torsos crack their backs much more frequently than those of average size.
I also learned some things about Korea. In a thoroughly modern society, the lack of road signage is a huge problem. I take back my admiration for a solid infrastructure, because although there may be practical things such as bus lanes, and strong public transportation, the lack of street signs is APPALLING. I know this is merely a cultural difference, but come now, how can you expect to get anywhere if there are no street signs, and directions consist of take a right at the family mart. Easier said then done, when there are 4 family marts at one intersection.
And why can't there be a printed bus schedule with clear times, and locations for bus lines. In a country where buses run like clockwork, you'd think a pamphlet could be made to aid it's citizens and visitors, especially when they are trying to market themselves as a tourist hot spot. One might argue that it is a waste of paper. But I can counter that argument easily with the most interesting job I have come across while here. THE PROFESSIONAL POLLUTER-these individuals might hide behind the guise of PR, but while they say it is merely marketing, driving around and throwing paper out of your car window defines Polluting. In some countries it is a crime. In Korea, it is employment.
Unlike America, where each city has an architectural flair and style, Korea's homogeneity extends to its architectural design. Each city has a restaurant district with beer/soju/makoli houses and more importantly a copyright infringement lawyers dream world. Yes that's right, the amount of copyright infringement that takes place here is wild. To the best of my knowledge, the Hard Rock Cafe has not extended a branch to rural Kangwando Province in Chuncheon. Nor is HBO aware of the amount of boutiques named "Sex and the City" with Carrie and the crew plastered on the walls. Though the historic aspects vary greatly, the yoegwan districts, shopping areas, and general architecture had me reminding myself what city I was in occasionally.
Korean Drinking culture give fraternity's a run for their money. This was never more apparent than 4 pm drunken brawl in the seoul subway or 12 pm, scuffle on the streets of insadong. I was actually concerned for the life of another patron at "the corner" as she was passed out and seemingly unconscious the entire duration of our stay. No one seemed concerned though her friend seemed bothered by the inconvenience. Or most recently, the drunken antics on the boat from Mokpo to Jeju. We arrived at the terminal only to be great ed by hikers drinking beer and soju around 845 am. It was unclear as to whether this was a pregame, or post hike toast, but nonetheless, crackin open a bottle of Hite at 9 am would have most experts questioning alcoholism. Alex and I were perplexed as to why a group sitting near us felt the need to bring their own case of Soju to the island. Now, I have only lived in Korea for 6 months, but within those 6 months it has become apparent I can get soju anywhere anytime. Bringing a box of a product you can buy at the gas station, family mart, local hut selling a random assortment of items, made me think they must have intentions of consuming all of that on the ship. Mokpo to Jeju:booze cruise 2007. I suppose the free samples of soju at family mart my first week in Korea should have prepared me for such a mindset.
I also learned some things about Korea. In a thoroughly modern society, the lack of road signage is a huge problem. I take back my admiration for a solid infrastructure, because although there may be practical things such as bus lanes, and strong public transportation, the lack of street signs is APPALLING. I know this is merely a cultural difference, but come now, how can you expect to get anywhere if there are no street signs, and directions consist of take a right at the family mart. Easier said then done, when there are 4 family marts at one intersection.
And why can't there be a printed bus schedule with clear times, and locations for bus lines. In a country where buses run like clockwork, you'd think a pamphlet could be made to aid it's citizens and visitors, especially when they are trying to market themselves as a tourist hot spot. One might argue that it is a waste of paper. But I can counter that argument easily with the most interesting job I have come across while here. THE PROFESSIONAL POLLUTER-these individuals might hide behind the guise of PR, but while they say it is merely marketing, driving around and throwing paper out of your car window defines Polluting. In some countries it is a crime. In Korea, it is employment.
Unlike America, where each city has an architectural flair and style, Korea's homogeneity extends to its architectural design. Each city has a restaurant district with beer/soju/makoli houses and more importantly a copyright infringement lawyers dream world. Yes that's right, the amount of copyright infringement that takes place here is wild. To the best of my knowledge, the Hard Rock Cafe has not extended a branch to rural Kangwando Province in Chuncheon. Nor is HBO aware of the amount of boutiques named "Sex and the City" with Carrie and the crew plastered on the walls. Though the historic aspects vary greatly, the yoegwan districts, shopping areas, and general architecture had me reminding myself what city I was in occasionally.
Korean Drinking culture give fraternity's a run for their money. This was never more apparent than 4 pm drunken brawl in the seoul subway or 12 pm, scuffle on the streets of insadong. I was actually concerned for the life of another patron at "the corner" as she was passed out and seemingly unconscious the entire duration of our stay. No one seemed concerned though her friend seemed bothered by the inconvenience. Or most recently, the drunken antics on the boat from Mokpo to Jeju. We arrived at the terminal only to be great ed by hikers drinking beer and soju around 845 am. It was unclear as to whether this was a pregame, or post hike toast, but nonetheless, crackin open a bottle of Hite at 9 am would have most experts questioning alcoholism. Alex and I were perplexed as to why a group sitting near us felt the need to bring their own case of Soju to the island. Now, I have only lived in Korea for 6 months, but within those 6 months it has become apparent I can get soju anywhere anytime. Bringing a box of a product you can buy at the gas station, family mart, local hut selling a random assortment of items, made me think they must have intentions of consuming all of that on the ship. Mokpo to Jeju:booze cruise 2007. I suppose the free samples of soju at family mart my first week in Korea should have prepared me for such a mindset.
The Reverse Missionary: it's not what you think
Recently I have been assaulted by Korean women, seemingly kind and eager to make an English speaking friend. Only I quickly realize, they are missionaries for the church of the Heavenly mother. Now in my mind, missionaries are traditionally foreigners working to build religious communities around the world by preaching their ideologies in the language of that particular country. But thanks to a strong history of missionary work in Korea, I am being "reverse missionaried" and I don't like it one bit. Is it payback for all the Mormons in town? And if so, why do I have to bare the brunt of the missionary competition. Maybe if I told them i lived at the motel orange, they would let me be. Does it not seem odd that in a non English speaking country this organization trains it's missionaries in English only to solicit foreigner membership to their parish? What's more, I attempt to be friendly and create good cultural relations as the cultural ambassador that I am, but who wants to be friendly with the Korean version of Jehovah witnesses harassing you at your doorstep? A challenge indeed.
2.15.2007
Yoegwan Tour Y2k7
526 hours gallivanting across the Korean peninsula, making our way south-proved quite an interesting adventure. An endeavor entitled, Yoegwan Tour Y2k7, in addition to seeing the sights, Alex Page and myself set out in search of the best yeogwan in the country.
What exactly is a yeogwan and what's all the hype? Korean Yeogwan culture is quite taboo. Love motels as they are frequently called provide a space for young couples to escape the confines of living with parents or strict dorms well into you adulthood. In turn, yeogwans provide a plethora of options regarding sleeping arrangements: 1 hour, 1 night, circular beds, themed rooms, black lights, and personal hygiene kits available for 50 cents at the front desk. Nestled in the back alleys of all Korean cities and towns, the neon glow of establishments with names such as motel Eros and motel paradise, guide lovers down a heathenish path of lust and debauchery. Needless to say, I have never seen a Korean couple enter such an establishment with a bag of any sort. But every couple that stands awkwardly next to me in the elevator, I feel compelled to say-"I know what you did don't think the rubber curtains which hide the license plate of your car trick me."
It is important to recognize though, for the traditional budget traveler, these yeogwans are in fact the most humble of accommodations for the most reasonable price. And so we set out, in hopes of finding the most absurd of accommodations at a good rate. What we quickly realized though, was the fact that our budget did not provide a space for the type of accommodations we were looking for; personal noribang etc.
However, Motel Zen in Daegu proved to be our top choice amidst a slue of similarly priced establishments. In addition to the lovely decor-modern and hip, the hot tub and full massage shower with radio/CD player inside made me reminiscent of our luxurious Bali bathroom.
Motel Windmill in Gwanjgu caught our attention immediately. Who could ignore a larger than life neon windmill on the side of a 10 story building. Easy to find and circular chimdays! Amazingly, amidst the quest we only stumbled across one circular bed-somewhat surprising since lonely planet made them seem so normal. Once again, it must have been a mater of budget.
The medieval themed tour took a backseat to central locations, though the number of motel queens/princess/prince/castle make the task an easy undertaking for anyone looking for a fun quest. Motel Carib, the castle motel in Chuncheon, entertained our desires to over quote Borat as much as possible-"king of the castle king of the castle."
Motel Paradise in Seoul, seemed to have an American movie classics theme to it. That is until we entered our room. The room was on the tenth floor, in actuality the attic of the establishment as the elevator didn't even climb to this floor. We enter a room nostalgic of a 14 year old's bedroom; complimentary large gorilla stuffed bear and all. It made me feel uncomfortable, one that we are fetishizing 14 year old's bedrooms, and that the concierge, or whatever you would call such an individual who mans the check in desk, would assume such a room would appeal to our tastes. Perhaps more, was the frosted glass bathroom door-classy in most situations, when they don't have an airbrushed picture of a topless Korean girl seductively posing for the camera. Either way, we were rarely in this room, with the exception of an hour midday, which consisted of Alex watching a piss poor Kurt Russell action flick. MISERABLE.
Most yeogwans are not very accommodating to the actual traveler. For example the seemingly amazing Motel NuNu, charges an extra 20 dollars for anyone checking in before 10 pm. And, weekends are always extra. Some yeogwans like to capitalize on their one hour market, and therefore make travelers check out for the day and come back in the evening. I know lockers are available in the subway, but the last thing I am interested in doing is lugging a heavy pack around with hopes of finding storage for the day.
Motel Prince in Sinchon Seoul, has been by far the most accommodating, allowing bag storage for the day, helping me tekbay-ship bags, and in general being quite friendly.
Motel Vision 21 in Pusan, arguably the hardest motel to find ever despite it's central location, provided us with mood lighting that could make anyone go blind. Though it was better than Motel Enhasu in Daegu. A Yeogwan cited as the best by lonely planet, was dirty, lacked the variety of TV channels and has a malfunctioning USB port on the computer-completely unacceptable for a 25 dollar accommodation. I was terrified by the bathroom. Although I desperately craved a shower, I thought I might come out dirtier than when I entered and opted to postpone the endeavor until we found better accommodations.
Motel Theme in Seoul, and Motel Cello in Pusan were unworthy of noting really. Both were clean, but in no way entertaining. I think I did most of my job applications at these establishments because they provided no entertainment, bland, lacking black lighting, and certainly no circular beds. Though if I recall, the juice box selection was decent in both locations.
And who could forget the ship yeogwan. Let's just say while embarking on the final leg of our journey back towards Jeju, the mokpo ferry provides space for it's passangers to rest. A public yeogwan if you will. I found myself in the midst of an ajuma slumber party. I think they might have been the group of people drinking before getting on the 9 am ship. Morning alcohol binges are sure to put old women to sleep.
At the suggestion of friends, we checked out motel orange in Jeju. A fitting name for an island known for it's citrus production. Though I must digress for a moment and pose the question why a province famous for oranges groves, does not produce ORANGE JUICE? There is a market waiting to be penetrated and I feel like I could make some money making jeju famous orange juice. The accommodations were lovely, and the rules posted in the lobby even more entertaining. Rule number 5 clearly stated: "Minors (under 19 years old), even if they are with adults, should not share a bed with members of the opposite gender because it may corrupt public morals". At least Jeju holds itself to high standards, upholding morals, even in it's corrupt yeogwan
districts.
All in all, Motel Zen wins. Best all around. Even the ajumas running the place were friendly. Though they always seem so innoncent, considering they are contributing to the currption of family values and morals all around.
What exactly is a yeogwan and what's all the hype? Korean Yeogwan culture is quite taboo. Love motels as they are frequently called provide a space for young couples to escape the confines of living with parents or strict dorms well into you adulthood. In turn, yeogwans provide a plethora of options regarding sleeping arrangements: 1 hour, 1 night, circular beds, themed rooms, black lights, and personal hygiene kits available for 50 cents at the front desk. Nestled in the back alleys of all Korean cities and towns, the neon glow of establishments with names such as motel Eros and motel paradise, guide lovers down a heathenish path of lust and debauchery. Needless to say, I have never seen a Korean couple enter such an establishment with a bag of any sort. But every couple that stands awkwardly next to me in the elevator, I feel compelled to say-"I know what you did don't think the rubber curtains which hide the license plate of your car trick me."
It is important to recognize though, for the traditional budget traveler, these yeogwans are in fact the most humble of accommodations for the most reasonable price. And so we set out, in hopes of finding the most absurd of accommodations at a good rate. What we quickly realized though, was the fact that our budget did not provide a space for the type of accommodations we were looking for; personal noribang etc.
However, Motel Zen in Daegu proved to be our top choice amidst a slue of similarly priced establishments. In addition to the lovely decor-modern and hip, the hot tub and full massage shower with radio/CD player inside made me reminiscent of our luxurious Bali bathroom.
Motel Windmill in Gwanjgu caught our attention immediately. Who could ignore a larger than life neon windmill on the side of a 10 story building. Easy to find and circular chimdays! Amazingly, amidst the quest we only stumbled across one circular bed-somewhat surprising since lonely planet made them seem so normal. Once again, it must have been a mater of budget.
The medieval themed tour took a backseat to central locations, though the number of motel queens/princess/prince/castle make the task an easy undertaking for anyone looking for a fun quest. Motel Carib, the castle motel in Chuncheon, entertained our desires to over quote Borat as much as possible-"king of the castle king of the castle."
Motel Paradise in Seoul, seemed to have an American movie classics theme to it. That is until we entered our room. The room was on the tenth floor, in actuality the attic of the establishment as the elevator didn't even climb to this floor. We enter a room nostalgic of a 14 year old's bedroom; complimentary large gorilla stuffed bear and all. It made me feel uncomfortable, one that we are fetishizing 14 year old's bedrooms, and that the concierge, or whatever you would call such an individual who mans the check in desk, would assume such a room would appeal to our tastes. Perhaps more, was the frosted glass bathroom door-classy in most situations, when they don't have an airbrushed picture of a topless Korean girl seductively posing for the camera. Either way, we were rarely in this room, with the exception of an hour midday, which consisted of Alex watching a piss poor Kurt Russell action flick. MISERABLE.
Most yeogwans are not very accommodating to the actual traveler. For example the seemingly amazing Motel NuNu, charges an extra 20 dollars for anyone checking in before 10 pm. And, weekends are always extra. Some yeogwans like to capitalize on their one hour market, and therefore make travelers check out for the day and come back in the evening. I know lockers are available in the subway, but the last thing I am interested in doing is lugging a heavy pack around with hopes of finding storage for the day.
Motel Prince in Sinchon Seoul, has been by far the most accommodating, allowing bag storage for the day, helping me tekbay-ship bags, and in general being quite friendly.
Motel Vision 21 in Pusan, arguably the hardest motel to find ever despite it's central location, provided us with mood lighting that could make anyone go blind. Though it was better than Motel Enhasu in Daegu. A Yeogwan cited as the best by lonely planet, was dirty, lacked the variety of TV channels and has a malfunctioning USB port on the computer-completely unacceptable for a 25 dollar accommodation. I was terrified by the bathroom. Although I desperately craved a shower, I thought I might come out dirtier than when I entered and opted to postpone the endeavor until we found better accommodations.
Motel Theme in Seoul, and Motel Cello in Pusan were unworthy of noting really. Both were clean, but in no way entertaining. I think I did most of my job applications at these establishments because they provided no entertainment, bland, lacking black lighting, and certainly no circular beds. Though if I recall, the juice box selection was decent in both locations.
And who could forget the ship yeogwan. Let's just say while embarking on the final leg of our journey back towards Jeju, the mokpo ferry provides space for it's passangers to rest. A public yeogwan if you will. I found myself in the midst of an ajuma slumber party. I think they might have been the group of people drinking before getting on the 9 am ship. Morning alcohol binges are sure to put old women to sleep.
At the suggestion of friends, we checked out motel orange in Jeju. A fitting name for an island known for it's citrus production. Though I must digress for a moment and pose the question why a province famous for oranges groves, does not produce ORANGE JUICE? There is a market waiting to be penetrated and I feel like I could make some money making jeju famous orange juice. The accommodations were lovely, and the rules posted in the lobby even more entertaining. Rule number 5 clearly stated: "Minors (under 19 years old), even if they are with adults, should not share a bed with members of the opposite gender because it may corrupt public morals". At least Jeju holds itself to high standards, upholding morals, even in it's corrupt yeogwan
districts.
All in all, Motel Zen wins. Best all around. Even the ajumas running the place were friendly. Though they always seem so innoncent, considering they are contributing to the currption of family values and morals all around.
2.12.2007
Transcending Terrorist Threats-Tackling Bali
Imagine the 14th season of the Real World is about to premiere. This year’s location: The Real World Bali. It’s the scene we’ve all seen before-7 individuals in their mid 20’s vying for the best spot in the house. Running around like children at an amusement park, not exactly sure which stop to make first. Then imagine Fulbrighters with the addition of the amazing Edwin Shaw at the Emerald Sunset villa. All coming from different places, the states, Bangkok, the Malaysian jungle, strategizing on room selection and in awe of the amazing ping pong table soon to be put into use. Meeting back up for the first time in months, words were a bit hard to get out since our jaws were to the ground in awe of our infinity pool and full staff (yes including a pool boy). We were greeted with finger sandwiches, and freshly squeezed orange juice. We were to live like kings for a week.
Following a set of appetizers prepared by Made, our new friend who happened to be our personal chef for the week, we wandered down the road leading straight to the unpopulated beach. Quite a sight to be seen, bali is known for its picturesque sunsets. Within 2 hours, I quickly realized that this experience will probably never fall into my lap again…ever. That is until our 10 year reunion.
Swimming, ping pong, good tunes, even better company, encompasses everything we had envisioned for balli to bali. Yoga and qi gong,with an abdominal workout for the books-a fine way to start the morning. I arrived pack strapped to my back, living for a month with clothes strewn on guesthouse floors, to find my clothes hung nicely in our luxurious closet. If only I had that type of assistance at Kangwan University.
We opted out of a snorkeling trip, and instead set out to expose me to one of the most famous activities in Bali. That’s right I went surfing, and my quest to move westward has only been strengthened since doing so. Though from what I hear, the Cali beaches might be hard to compete with arguably the best surfing in the world. With what one could call “couples rashgaurds” Alex and I set out in neon blue and pink tops. Even though I grew up on the ocean, spent summers fighting the strong currents and waves on the vineyard, I have always been fearless of the water. But when there is an 8-foot board attached to you, and you’re taken under, it’s a whole new experience. After regrouping, and letting Alex actually surf for real, we set back out. And though they were baby waves, I stood on my first real attempt for a decent 5 seconds. More than I could have ever imagined possible. Needless to say, I have a new hobby to pursue and will do so in Jeju and in Cali.
When I say we set out to go surfing, I literally mean set out on a journey. A journey that exposed us to the good, the bad and the ugly of Bali. Unable to find a place to rent some boards, we were forced to walk south towards kuta and legion. The beaches where we were located in Canngu were absolutely beautiful and even the touristy destination of Kuta beach was impeccable. So it was much to our surprise when we stumbled upon what could have been Bali municipal waste management center. Amidst a beautiful walk along the ocean, we had to stop dead in our tracks and look at the trash around us. I have never seen so much pollution in my life. We couldn’t walk around it because there was too much. What was more absurd is that resort patrons, just found the clean spots and settled in amidst the garbage. If I were to have had accommodations at one of these resorts, I would have left Bali more infuriated than I was just walking through it. There was garbage on the beach and in the ocean. It is a scene I never want to think about again. EVER.
The beaches near us were beautiful but occasionally the tide got strong.
The waves were strong and so Kate, with her maternal instincts, or perhaps plain logic, instated a no drunken ocean swimming policy. We also instated a no drunken balcony jumping policy rule as the thought had crossed our minds a few times while sober.
Other wonders of bali were the jewelry vendors. Oh the jewelry vendors, stores lined with necklace after necklace, big and chunky, brightly colored, beautiful necklaces. I couldn’t get enough of it. I bargained the man down and found myself very happy with a pile of new gems to add to my collection.
Following a week of indulgence and luxurious living, we packed our bags and bounced to the airport. It was difficult to see our friends off, just about to start their travels in S.E. Asia while ours had come to an end, but I was excited for them nonetheless. We dropped our bags at a baggage storage place. The worst idea masked as the best idea. In a country where “terrorism is imminent” why would you have an unsecure luggage storage in the central part of the airport? Sort of trumps the idea of never leave your bags unattended. We bounced around Kuta for the last time before heading out. The heat was so exhausting; it reminded me of summer days at Kangwan University. Where I was too hot to get to the post office because walking was so tasking.
I arrived home in Korea with a pain in my stomach and knew before I got off the plane something was not right. Nonetheless, I lied on my health quarantine document with fear of what would happen otherwise. When I look back, perhaps they could have been of more help than wikipedia. Anyhow, what it comes down to is that while traveling I came down with an annoyance of a thing, called a parasite. Needless to say, I was down and out for a bit. In fact I still haven’t fully recovered. The reproduction cycle is certainly a wonder.
Though it was somewhat anticlimactic to embark on a cross-country trip in Korea post wild south East Asian adventures, we tackled it with stride and yoegwan tour 2007 was certainly entertaining.
Following a set of appetizers prepared by Made, our new friend who happened to be our personal chef for the week, we wandered down the road leading straight to the unpopulated beach. Quite a sight to be seen, bali is known for its picturesque sunsets. Within 2 hours, I quickly realized that this experience will probably never fall into my lap again…ever. That is until our 10 year reunion.
Swimming, ping pong, good tunes, even better company, encompasses everything we had envisioned for balli to bali. Yoga and qi gong,with an abdominal workout for the books-a fine way to start the morning. I arrived pack strapped to my back, living for a month with clothes strewn on guesthouse floors, to find my clothes hung nicely in our luxurious closet. If only I had that type of assistance at Kangwan University.
We opted out of a snorkeling trip, and instead set out to expose me to one of the most famous activities in Bali. That’s right I went surfing, and my quest to move westward has only been strengthened since doing so. Though from what I hear, the Cali beaches might be hard to compete with arguably the best surfing in the world. With what one could call “couples rashgaurds” Alex and I set out in neon blue and pink tops. Even though I grew up on the ocean, spent summers fighting the strong currents and waves on the vineyard, I have always been fearless of the water. But when there is an 8-foot board attached to you, and you’re taken under, it’s a whole new experience. After regrouping, and letting Alex actually surf for real, we set back out. And though they were baby waves, I stood on my first real attempt for a decent 5 seconds. More than I could have ever imagined possible. Needless to say, I have a new hobby to pursue and will do so in Jeju and in Cali.
When I say we set out to go surfing, I literally mean set out on a journey. A journey that exposed us to the good, the bad and the ugly of Bali. Unable to find a place to rent some boards, we were forced to walk south towards kuta and legion. The beaches where we were located in Canngu were absolutely beautiful and even the touristy destination of Kuta beach was impeccable. So it was much to our surprise when we stumbled upon what could have been Bali municipal waste management center. Amidst a beautiful walk along the ocean, we had to stop dead in our tracks and look at the trash around us. I have never seen so much pollution in my life. We couldn’t walk around it because there was too much. What was more absurd is that resort patrons, just found the clean spots and settled in amidst the garbage. If I were to have had accommodations at one of these resorts, I would have left Bali more infuriated than I was just walking through it. There was garbage on the beach and in the ocean. It is a scene I never want to think about again. EVER.
The beaches near us were beautiful but occasionally the tide got strong.
The waves were strong and so Kate, with her maternal instincts, or perhaps plain logic, instated a no drunken ocean swimming policy. We also instated a no drunken balcony jumping policy rule as the thought had crossed our minds a few times while sober.
Other wonders of bali were the jewelry vendors. Oh the jewelry vendors, stores lined with necklace after necklace, big and chunky, brightly colored, beautiful necklaces. I couldn’t get enough of it. I bargained the man down and found myself very happy with a pile of new gems to add to my collection.
Following a week of indulgence and luxurious living, we packed our bags and bounced to the airport. It was difficult to see our friends off, just about to start their travels in S.E. Asia while ours had come to an end, but I was excited for them nonetheless. We dropped our bags at a baggage storage place. The worst idea masked as the best idea. In a country where “terrorism is imminent” why would you have an unsecure luggage storage in the central part of the airport? Sort of trumps the idea of never leave your bags unattended. We bounced around Kuta for the last time before heading out. The heat was so exhausting; it reminded me of summer days at Kangwan University. Where I was too hot to get to the post office because walking was so tasking.
I arrived home in Korea with a pain in my stomach and knew before I got off the plane something was not right. Nonetheless, I lied on my health quarantine document with fear of what would happen otherwise. When I look back, perhaps they could have been of more help than wikipedia. Anyhow, what it comes down to is that while traveling I came down with an annoyance of a thing, called a parasite. Needless to say, I was down and out for a bit. In fact I still haven’t fully recovered. The reproduction cycle is certainly a wonder.
Though it was somewhat anticlimactic to embark on a cross-country trip in Korea post wild south East Asian adventures, we tackled it with stride and yoegwan tour 2007 was certainly entertaining.
In transit
Following a rousing time in Thailand it was my time to embark on arguably the most absurd leg of my trip. I purchased my “Airport taxi” ticket on the side of the road from a vendor selling cheaper tickets that those at the hotel. Though I was hesitant, after watching carload after carload, day after day, I assumed these people we arriving at the correct destination. We set out and I promptly passed out. Bangkok sure does reinvent one’s definition of party. I slept uncomfortably until the car de-accelerated to a stop on the highway. That’s it; I knew this van wasn’t capable of making it to the airport. I quickly realized we were merely helping another van driver who was stranded. Though I couldn’t help think the worst, I was impressed at the good-natured driver. The van was shady, considering when we arrived at the airport it was immediately given a ticket for being an unlicensed transport provider. But with my luggage in hand, I wasn’t concerned and I set off hoping for a more leisurely journey than that on one two go. Thai international airways is by far the most luxurious airport I have ever been to, but I have heard Singapore, with personal free x box stations, and reclining leather couches gives it a run for it’s money.
As my plane taxied down the runway a fear took over my body. The clanking coming from all parts of the plane was so disconcerting. So loud, I was assured we would be taken back to the terminal. No such thing occurred and we took off as scheduled. I made an assumption that flying on an airliner where you cannot purchase the tickets at 7-11 would prove a gentler ride. I was gravely mistaken. I thought to myself, how ironic it would be were this plane to crash and not the 40-year-old repainted continental airline that one two go acquired. I had my second panic attack, the first being the morning of graduation. The amount of turbulence and endless clanking lead me to reasonably think, parts of this plane are falling into the ocean and we are not far behind. I had never felt so settled as to land in Taipei, but feared the dreaded smell of the airport and the possibility of setting out to find accommodations at 1 am.
Still smelling like 1974, the Taipei airport, was much more alive at night. A speedy trip through immigration made me have a good feeling about my evening’s prospects. Until I realized I unknowingly left the terminal where my transit hotel was located. A debacle in a language I was unfamiliar with quickly ensued. I needed to communicate with immigration, customs, and airlines attendants that although I did not have a boarding pass, and could not acquire one until the morning, I needed to re enter the terminal. Amazingly enough they were extremely accommodating. And so I obtained my first voided entry stamp into a country. And entered the transit hotel with little problem.
Following a brief slumber, I took a deep breath and set out for a day of travel. A 2-½ hour trip back to Seoul followed by a 7-hour flight back down to Bali. Chaotic travel arrangements due to the cancellation of camp Fulbright. The flight was relaxing and my neighbor and I did it right; exit row seating, extra pillows and extra blankets. It was like an airplane fort, and it was fantastic. Once in Seoul, I felt a feeling of comfort, something so fulfilling from a country that once also seemed so foreign.
I set out in the early evening for bali. Unnerved after reading the recent travel warning released not 5 days before. Embassy’s around the world echoed the same sentiments: do not make unnecessary travel to Indonesia. Terrorist attacks against foreigners are imminent and in the advanced planning stages; including but not limited to bombings, kidnappings, poisonings and/or executions. Add this the Adam Air scenario that seems too similar to “Lost,” and I was wondering if I would make it back to Korea alive. Trying to dig deep down and be intrepid, I fought fear and looked forward to the amazingness that was to be Bali to Bali.
I made friends with an older women; she also had the good sense to also choose exit row seating. She was thoroughly interesting and though there must have been a 40-year-old age difference, we decided to catch a cab together and stay at the same guesthouse. She was eager to find better accommodations, which in turn caused quite a riff with the guesthouse staff, since I was guilty by association and had to diffuse the tension between the two parties, even though I had no allegiance to either. She was upset she didn’t have hot water and was paying for hot water. What she failed to realize was compared to a lot of s.e Asia’s conception of hot water, we were bathing in scalding water. She moved on the next morning and I apologized to the staff for the conflict. I caught up on some reading, sudoku and sleep my first day alone in Bali. These badass hot surfer girls kept walking by and I knew at that moment, that I had new goal to accomplish. I was so eager to see the Jeju crew, my anticipation made the day go on forever. I awoke around 12 the next morning and was saved from an artist peddling his paintings, by the fact that I needed to get to the airport. What ensued can only be defined as absurdity.
As my plane taxied down the runway a fear took over my body. The clanking coming from all parts of the plane was so disconcerting. So loud, I was assured we would be taken back to the terminal. No such thing occurred and we took off as scheduled. I made an assumption that flying on an airliner where you cannot purchase the tickets at 7-11 would prove a gentler ride. I was gravely mistaken. I thought to myself, how ironic it would be were this plane to crash and not the 40-year-old repainted continental airline that one two go acquired. I had my second panic attack, the first being the morning of graduation. The amount of turbulence and endless clanking lead me to reasonably think, parts of this plane are falling into the ocean and we are not far behind. I had never felt so settled as to land in Taipei, but feared the dreaded smell of the airport and the possibility of setting out to find accommodations at 1 am.
Still smelling like 1974, the Taipei airport, was much more alive at night. A speedy trip through immigration made me have a good feeling about my evening’s prospects. Until I realized I unknowingly left the terminal where my transit hotel was located. A debacle in a language I was unfamiliar with quickly ensued. I needed to communicate with immigration, customs, and airlines attendants that although I did not have a boarding pass, and could not acquire one until the morning, I needed to re enter the terminal. Amazingly enough they were extremely accommodating. And so I obtained my first voided entry stamp into a country. And entered the transit hotel with little problem.
Following a brief slumber, I took a deep breath and set out for a day of travel. A 2-½ hour trip back to Seoul followed by a 7-hour flight back down to Bali. Chaotic travel arrangements due to the cancellation of camp Fulbright. The flight was relaxing and my neighbor and I did it right; exit row seating, extra pillows and extra blankets. It was like an airplane fort, and it was fantastic. Once in Seoul, I felt a feeling of comfort, something so fulfilling from a country that once also seemed so foreign.
I set out in the early evening for bali. Unnerved after reading the recent travel warning released not 5 days before. Embassy’s around the world echoed the same sentiments: do not make unnecessary travel to Indonesia. Terrorist attacks against foreigners are imminent and in the advanced planning stages; including but not limited to bombings, kidnappings, poisonings and/or executions. Add this the Adam Air scenario that seems too similar to “Lost,” and I was wondering if I would make it back to Korea alive. Trying to dig deep down and be intrepid, I fought fear and looked forward to the amazingness that was to be Bali to Bali.
I made friends with an older women; she also had the good sense to also choose exit row seating. She was thoroughly interesting and though there must have been a 40-year-old age difference, we decided to catch a cab together and stay at the same guesthouse. She was eager to find better accommodations, which in turn caused quite a riff with the guesthouse staff, since I was guilty by association and had to diffuse the tension between the two parties, even though I had no allegiance to either. She was upset she didn’t have hot water and was paying for hot water. What she failed to realize was compared to a lot of s.e Asia’s conception of hot water, we were bathing in scalding water. She moved on the next morning and I apologized to the staff for the conflict. I caught up on some reading, sudoku and sleep my first day alone in Bali. These badass hot surfer girls kept walking by and I knew at that moment, that I had new goal to accomplish. I was so eager to see the Jeju crew, my anticipation made the day go on forever. I awoke around 12 the next morning and was saved from an artist peddling his paintings, by the fact that I needed to get to the airport. What ensued can only be defined as absurdity.
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