5.31.2007

reflections on Korean Tourism and Yoegwan tour y2k7 an addendum

Korea is a country striving to parallel the tourist industry of its fellow Asian countries such as Japan and China. However as a westerner I see some flawed logic in this attempt. First take Jungmun beach here on Jeju island. Jungmun resort complex is gorgeous and they wish to attract foreign tourists. However most travelers want to swim when they go to the beach. Unfortunately here in Korea, swimming is not done frequently and beach swimming is considered very dangerous. Thus tourists are turned away from frolicking in the ocean and required to stand only knee deep. The unwillingness to compromise will forever hold Korea back from achieving their goals.

Another issue I see is the language issue. Even in Seoul, many people in the service industry do not speak English. I have little Korean under my belt, but I have been able to get by thus far. However one day, as I attempted to go to the train station, heavy pack in tow-I was unable to communicate with my driver in Korean or English. One might think KTX (name of train) and "i am going to Taegu Seoul station please" (in Korean) would be sufficient. But I could not convey this effectively in either language and was left on the side of the road looking for another taxi. Now I am fortunate to have had some Korean, but there are going to be people who lack that luxury and still need transportation. having just traveled to Taipei as well as other parts of Asia, I must admit they far surpass Korea in the ability to help travelers.

Perhaps most interestingly though was what occurred when we arrived back in Korea from Taipei. Having an extremely early morning flight back to the island, we needed an affordable place to stay near the airport, preferably with car service. We consulted the information desk and she directed us to the Sky Grand. It came highly recommended by the airport. We were picked up by an old man in a dodgy old car and taken 15 minutes outside the area. When we turned the corner towards our hotel, a street of love motels glimmered with flashing neon signs. The car entered the covered garage, mind you other vehicles are in the garage. Wooden panels with Sky motel written on are placed to strategically cover license plates. We paid for our room, and walked past the frosted window with images of topless Victorian women carved into them. What really got me was the fact that the GIMPO international airport actually highly recommended a motel with rooms that had a black light, and a coin operated vibrating bed. Many travelers aren't looking for kink, but rather a place to relax. Anyhow, amidst our travels, its ironic that the most absurd place we found wasn't stumbled across down back Allys, but highly recommended by the international airport. Sometimes I just don't get Korea.

Jobless no more

I am excited to say I will return to the states with a job secured. Skype really paid off while I was abroad-so many midnight phone-calls with a variety of potential employers. I suppose so did the countless hours spent in the gymoshel (teachers room); ample time to perfect my resume. Even so, with that said I am sure there are more cover letters out there with grammatical errors than I care to think of. Ooops.

Anyhow, people always say things will fall into place when they are meant to and it seems just about right. The job search is not an easy one, especially when attempting to do it from abroad. But come July 5th I am employed. I will be paid very little and I will live in the most expensive part of the country-Bay area Cali. But, I will be doing something I love. So, I am embarking on a two year fellowship program called The National Teaching fellowship. Check it out www.citizenschools.org . Here, I will get to do curriculum development and implementation, work as a liason between non profits and a specific school, work one-on-one with middle schoolers and pursue a masters! It's a two year gig. This is both comforting in a sense that I have a plan, and yet terrifying for the same exact reason. Nonetheless having a masters in 09 is quite exciting. So is the idea of having full benefits and a retirement plan! This is exactly what I envisioned for myself as an educator so things are looking good.

I got one month left. I arrive in Boston on the 1st. I can't wait to have another rousing 4th of July on the Charles. Then, following a month long intensive summer session, it's off to California. Even though I am a New England girl, everyone says California is for me. I am utterly ecstatic.

5.30.2007

Taiwanese times

I begin my journey back to the states exactly one month from today. Prior to departing, I needed one last international Asian adventure. Thus, we set off to Taiwan in search of good food, culture and lesport bags! What I found was so much more than that; a Volvo culture that made me cry tears of happiness and sadness both at the same time. It seemed every corner I turned, my old Volvo 850 glt was waiting. And yet when I return to the states, I return to a reality that I sold my car and will never experience the wind blowing through my hair from the sun roof and bomb speaker system as I cruise through the streets of Northampton. What will I do?

Things were off to a rough start. We arrived at Incheon airport with expectations of finding some affordable accommodations prior to our early morning departure. What we found was nothing of the sort; a yoegwan with racked up prices. What we spent there we made up for with our 10 dollar a night hostel in Taiwan. Lonely planet didn't lie, you get what you pay for. But, it catered to our hobo tendencies and despite the excessive heat, we grew quite fond of our little hole in the wall.

Now I don't know about you, but I rarely brief myself on the latest TSA regulations. Though I had heard rumblings of no bottled water on flights to America, we were unaware that this had became an international phenomenon. Needless to say I was frustrated when I was forced to sip my orange juice in front of the security check, thus leaving my McDonald's hash brown lonely and myself without hydration. Now tell me this, what is the point of such a regulation? If I am willing and able to drink said liquid in front of security, could it possibly be a threat to others? Also, i was forced to bag my creams in zip locks. Now, what will that zip lock bag do to protect people? And what are the consequences if i take the substances out of the bag? We contemplated taking the regulated zip locks and strategically placing them, emptied of all contents, at gates around the airport. We wondered if immediately, planes would be grounded? And if in turn, a search for more terrorists in the middle east would take place? Not two college grads traveling in Asia though.

So after some solid card games, we arrived safely in Taipei. The heat was oppressive. But the city was exciting. I was impressed by an aspect of their urban planning that incorporated so much green in the city itself. Boulevards had sweeping green trees and parks were everywhere. I was also amazed at the general populations' English fluency. From the guy at the corner store, to people on buses and trains, it seemed everyone was more well versed in the language then in Korea.

Our first stop was Taipei 101-Aside from it being the tallest building in the world, it is also home to the Guinness book of world records fastest elevator. It is also recognized for an absolutely outstanding food court. And the best market ever-Jasons Market. Let's just say this, every food I have craved for a year existed all in one place. It was like the mother of all Whole Foods. I limited myself to some sharp Cheddar cheese.

Our intentions for going to Taipei 101 first, was to get a general lay out of the city. This worked very well in some respects. However, standing 90 stories over a large city, things appear a lot closer than they really are. We ended up wandering aimlessly around the city without reaching our intended destinations. Still great nonetheless-other than the fact that we had to stop in 7-11's along the way, pretend to buy something and move on-just to cool down.
The transportation was amazing and the night markets, oh the night markets. We went to a different night market every day and the flower jade market on Sunday. Shida night market was outstanding. Every corner was a new store. Alex was very patient with my desires to find beautiful things. And he even picked up two amazing shirts. The jade market was bittersweet. I was so amazed and in awe of everything I saw and struggled with the realities that I couldn't have most of it.

The museums, the people, food and environment was all amazing. From the store owner we met in Danshui, to the fun malaysian and chinese girls visiting from london at the bar, we didn't want to leave Taiwan.

Though I am still right about the airport, it smells like 1974.

5.21.2007

One Year Ago

One year ago today, I departed my beloved Smith College. Hesitantly, I moved on with new ambitions to pursue worldly adventures. Alas, I find myself in the last month of my Fulbright here in Korea. I struggle daily with a language of which I still know very little, send out countless resumes, push on through days that seem never ending, deal with students who just don't care and wonder what things will be like when I arrive back in the states. Amidst all of this, I have learned a great deal about myself-and realize how quickly a year goes by. I arrive back in the United States, Boston to be specific- on July 1st 2007 at 8:24 pm. Not sure yet, whether I want a buffalo chicken calzone, sub, or a hearty cheeseburger or sandwich. More of a concern is whether i will be able to consume such delectable treats after consuming so much kimchi and rice. I will try nevertheless.

Below is Gloria Steinem's'56 commencement speech for the Smith Class of 2007. Her words were not merely a glorification of her successful career like many speakers of the past, but rather a rallying call for movement in a country that seems to be constantly backtracking. I sat in my office, holding back tears*, moved and inspired and most importantly proud of the institution I had the privilege of attending. Enjoy.




metaphorically of course-we all know I actually can't produce tears :-(
May 20, 2007
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Commencement address to the Class of 2007
by Gloria Steinem '56
Feminist leader and Smith alumna Gloria Steinem took the stage to a standing ovation from the audience at the commencement ceremony for the Class of 2007 on May 20 inside the Indoor Track and Tennis (ITT) facility.

To Carol Christ who leads Smith College (and does the most amazing introductions); to the faculty who create its purpose and the staff who give it daily life; to the honorary degree recipients in whose presence I am so very proud to be; to all the families and friends and partners and children who have sustained today's graduates -- especially those of you who have performed the miracle of guiding children through an experience you could not have -- and most of all, to you, the beloved, brave, tired and now headed-for-the-world graduates of the Class of 2007:

The first generation of Facebook and YouTube Smithies; the class to shape and survive the most changes in the way Smith lives; the second class of the Iraq War, and the most diverse class in the history of Smith College, from Adas -- who made sure that Class (economic class) Is Never Dismissed, and to all those who help Smith College look more like the world:

I thank you for including me in your historic day.

It's historic for me, too, because I was sitting where you sit today exactly fifty-one years ago.

I wasn't sure I should bring up this half-century fact. For one thing, I feel connected to you, not distant. For another, I feared you might go into as much age-shock as I did when I woke up after my seventieth birthday, and thought, “There's a 70-year-old woman in my bed! How did this happen?!”

But then I realized that fearing separation by age was probably more my generation's problem than yours. If I conjure up my own graduation day, for instance, even life after thirty seemed a hazy screen to be filled in by the needs of others – and there were not yet even Adas to show us that life and growth continue. In our age ghetto, we pretty much accepted the idea that women were more valued for giving birth to others than for giving birth to ourselves.

Yes, many of us had professions, but they were secondary. As one of my classmates said in the light of later feminism, “I didn't have a job, I had a jobette.” We weren’t trying to change the world to fit women -- and neither was Smith in those days -- we were trying to change ourselves to fit the world.

If this seems hard to believe now, think of my two most famous age peers: Marilyn Monroe, who literally feared aging more than death, and Smith’s own Sylvia Plath, whose own world-class talent couldn't give her the autonomy she needed to survive.

Now, thanks to decades of feminist rebellion, your generation is much more likely to value minds and hearts and talents that last just as long as you do. You not only have a somewhat longer life expectancy physically, but faith in a much longer life of your own making. Fortunately for me, this also means you are better able to identify with other women across boundaries of age.

For instance: My generation of young women said things like, “I'm not going to be anything like my mother.” After all, if we didn't blame our mothers for living vicarious lives, we would have to admit that we might have to do the same. Even now, my generation - and probably some of yours, too - are living out the unlived lives of our mothers.

This is honorable and rewarding and loving, but it isn’t the same thing -- for either mother or daughter -- as living our own unique lives.

Now, I meet many young women who say something like, “I hope I can have as interesting a life as my mother.” Not the same life, but as interesting. And when I hear this, it brings tears to my eyes -- because I know there is not only love between generations, as there always has been, but now there is respect, learning, a sense of balance, even an invitation to adventure.

So instead of worrying about the decades between us, I thought I would use them as a measure of the future by projecting a similar time into the future. Like the swing of a compass arm, I invite you to measure the progress made in the time between my graduating class and yours, and project into the future same distance.

What might the world be like when you are come back to visit the class of 2057?

I'm not suggesting we know what will happen, but I am suggesting that imagination is a form of planning.

So let’s take a concrete example: In my generation, we were asked by the Smith vocational office how many words we could type a minute; a question that was never asked of then all-male students at Harvard or Princeton. Female-only typing was rationalized by supposedly greater female verbal skills, attention to detail, smaller fingers, goodess knows what, but the public imagination just didn't include male typists, certainly not Ivy League-educated ones.

Now, computers have come along, and “typing” is “keyboarding.” Suddenly, voila! - men can type! Gives you faith in men's ability to change, doesn't it?

So maybe by 2057, occupational segregation -- an even greater cause of wage disparity than unequal pay, may have changed enough so there will be male nurses and female surgeons. Then male medics won’t come home from the military to be shamed out of nursing jobs, and nursing will be better paid for no longer being a pink collar ghetto.

Or perhaps parking lot attendants will no longer be paid more than childcare attendants -- as is now the case not because we value our cars more than our children but because the first are almost totally male and the second are almost totally female.

And most of all, maybe the vast unpaid area of care giving – whether that means raising children or caring for the ill and elderly: about 30% of the productive work in this country and more than half in many countries – maybe this huge and vital area of work will at last have an attributed economic value, whether it is done by women or men.

This is already a feminist proposal for tax policy. It would mean the attributed value of care giving would become tax deductible for those who pay taxes, and tax refundable for those who are too poor to pay taxes, thus substituting for the disaster of welfare. It would be a huge advance. We would at last be valuing all productive work, including that mysteriously defined as not-work: as in homemakers who “don’t work,” even though they work longer and harder than any other class of worker. (Not to mention with more likelihood of getting replaced by a younger worker.)

Take something deeper: My generation identified emotionally with every other vulnerable group, but without understanding why. Fifty years later, we understand why: females are an “out” group, too -- no wonder we identified. Now there are local, national and global liberation movements based on sex, race, ethnicity, sexuality and class. We know in these movements we are each others' allies, if only because our adversaries are all the same.

Perhaps fifty years from now the public imagination will finally understand this as one inseparable movement. The same hierarchy that controls women's bodies as the means of reproduction – which is how we women got into this jam in the first place -- and says that sexuality is only moral when it is directed toward reproduction within patriarchal marriage - also controls reproduction in order to maintain racial difference and to preserve a racist caste system. We will understand that it's impossible to be a feminist without also being an anti-racist - and vice versa. Not only because women are en every gruop in the wrold but because racial caste and sexual caste are inseparable.

We will also understand that the same folks who are against contraception and abortion and even the sex education that helps avoid abortion – anything that allows the separation of sexuality from reproduction – are also against sexual expression between two women or between two men. They deny the reality that human sexuality has always been a form of communication and pleasure, not just a way we reproduce. (And I do mean always. The Native women who lived on this very land long before Europeans showed up had two or three children two or three years apart. They absolutely understood contraception, which is not just some modern gift from the pharmaceutical industry.)

No wonder anti-equality, racist and anti-gay forces are all the same, just as they were in, say, Germany under fascism, or in theocracies and totalitarian regimes now. Perhaps fifty years from now, most people will understand that reproductive and sexual freedom – and democratic families, democracy within families – are as necessary to democracy as is the vote and freedom of speech.

Or take another area very close to home. My generation often accepted the idea that the private/public roles of women and men were “natural.” Your generation has made giant strides into public life, but often still says: How can I combine career and family?

I say to you from the bottom of my heart that when you ask that question you are setting your sights way too low. First of all, there can be no answer until men are asking the same question. Second, every other modern democracy in the world is way, way ahead of this country in providing a national system of childcare, and job patterns adapted to the needs of parents, both men and women.

So don’t get guilty. Get mad. Get active. If this is a problem that affects millions of unique women, then the only answer is to organize.

I know it may be hard for women to believe that men can be loving and nurturing of small children – just as it may be hard for men to believe that women can be expert and achieving in public life as they have. If you’ve never seen a deer, it’s hard to see a deer. If I hadn’t happened to have a father who raised me in as a small child as much as my mother did, I might not believe it either. But raising young children – or being raised to raise children – is the way men are most likely to develop their own full circle of human qualities, and stop reproducing the prison of the “masculine” role. Just as our role in the public life frees us of the prison of the "feminine" role.

For that matter, our kids do what they see, not what they’re told. If children don’t see whole people, they’re much less likely to become whole people – at least, not without a lot of hard work in later life.

Which leads us into the big question of violence. Gender roles provide the slippery slope to the normalization of control and violence in all their forms, from sexualized violence to military violence – which is the distance from A. to B. Until the family paradigm of human relationships is about cooperation and not domination or hierarchy, we’re unlikely to imagine cooperation as normal or even possible in public life.

We must change this paradigm for it is just too dangerous in this era of weapons -- especially as it collides with a religions that extol Doomsday.

It’s already too dangerous in this era when there are more slaves in proportion to the world’s population – more people held by force or coercion without benefit from their work – more now than there were in the 1800s. Sex trafficking, labor trafficking, children and adults forced into armies: they all add up to a global human-trafficking industry that is more profitable than the arms trade, and second only to the drug trade. The big difference now from the 1800s is that the United Nations estimates that 80% of those who are enslaved are women and children.

Yes, all this will take much longer than our projected fifty years to transform. The wisdom of original cultures tells us that it takes four generations to heal one violent act. But it’s also true that, if we were to raise even one generation of children without violence and without shaming, we have no idea what might be possible.

It won’t be easy to hang on to this vision of possibilities in ourselves and in others if we are alone in a world that’s organized a different way. We are communal creatures. So make sure you’re not alone after you leave this community at Smith. Make sure you meet with a few friends once a week or once a month; people you can share experiences and hopes with – and vice versa. Women may need this even more than other marginalized groups because, after all, we will never have our own country (good thing -- it makes us anti-nationalistic), we don’t have a neighborhood; most of us don’t even have a bar.

So, if I had one wish for women worldwide, it would be a kind of global version of Alcoholics Anonymous: a network of women’s groups – also welcoming to men who have the same radical vision. These leaderless and free groups would exist in cities and villages, in school basements and around rural wells. They could spread like lace over the globe and their purpose will be to support self-authority. After all, democracy can’t exist without the help of half of the world's population.

While we’re at it over the next fifty years, remember that the end doesn’t justify the means, the means ARE the ends. If we want joy and music and friendship and laughter at the end of our revolution, we must joy and music and friendship and laughter along the way. Emma Goldman had the right idea about dancing at the revolution.

So, my beloved comrades, yes this is the longest of all revolutions and that will mean a lot of struggle, a lot of organizing together and a lot of unity, but that also means a lot of dancing.

For now, just measure the distance from my graduation to yours – from my class with only one student of color to your diverse class; from my era of no women’s history to yours that has been strengthened by women’s history. You can match or surpass that distance that we have covered.

Now, it's true that I have every intention of living to be 100. But even I, hope-oholic that I am, know when you return to celebrate your victories and inspire the class of 2057, I won’t be with you.

But then again: I will.

5.03.2007

RHYTHM

Rhythm Has You Thinking Hard Man-is an easy way to remember the spelling of the word rhythm. And to be honest, there's some truth to the statement. No matter how musically inclined you are, rhythm is of the utmost importance when it comes to musicality and a challenge to many performers. You always have to be cognizant about it. That's why at concerts, I think there should be an added disclaimer. You know the part before a show begins and notices such as "please turn off all cell phones" or "the use of flash photography is prohibited during the performance" are announced? The following disclaimer should, and NEEDS to be inserted: "NO AUDIENCE CLAP PARTICIPATION AS IT DISTRACTS THE PERFORMERS."

I went to a symphony performance this evening and was so impressed by the ability of the musicians to stay on rhythm despite the heinous off-beat clapping patterns of the audience.

Some Situational Irony Get's Ya Through the Day

As I moseyed down the streets of seogwipo, a van load of children caught my attention- or should I say the name of the center that owned the van caught my attention.

"The Ebenezer Child Center."

Memories of Dicken's "A Christmas Carol" were rendered almost instantaneously. And I thought to myself, what parent would ever send their children to this child center.


While I write this I am watching a women across the coffee shop take part in a one woman photo shoot. Just her, a cell phone camera, and about a dozen onlookers. Well not active onlookers-but enough people to make the scenario seem a bit awkward. This happens all the time-everywhere I go. Maybe it's the influence of the excessive amount of mirrors in this country. Carly Simon's "You're So Vain," ya know the one that is always a highlighted tune from the As Seen On TV "Hits from 70's" is now stuck in my head. "Only 19.95 No C.O.D.'s"